Wednesday September 1, 1830. I arose quite early this morning and found it fair weather. Father arrived in a short time with Mr. Tenney. We started in the stage about seven. I rode on top and had a very pleasant prospect of the surrounding country. I found the road remarkably good from Concord to Hooksett, and in fact to Boston generally. We made no stop till we changed horses in Chester, I think. We had to pass quite a length of road through the woods in Chester and Manchester where the turnpike is not much settled on because it is a new road. We passed Manabesic Pond in Manchester, a very fine pond. The woods through which we have generally passed are chiefly hard wood such as oak and maple which make excellent wood for house use. I found that apples and other kinds of fruit was very plenty all the way and some trees were proped [sic] and some broke down. Corn was some injured by the last wind. We took dinner at Lowell. It is the finest little bussiness [sic] town I was ever in. It is filled with factories. The place has increased wonderfully within a few years and is probably the largest manufactoring establishment in the U.S. It is said that the companies will build thirty more [factories?] soon. There are between thirty and forty finished, I think. The rest of the rout [sic] was not very agreeable, the country not being very much settled. We came in sight of Middlesex Canal two or three times and crossed it once. Corn is much beat down by the last wind. The country very romantic in many places. We passed through Medford a little before five o’clock. A very pretty little town. Arrived in Boston about five o’clock and was almost stunned with the rattling of carriages on the pavements. We stopped at No. 9 Elm Street. Went to Long Wharf and found a vessel for Eastport and another for Augusta, Me. I think I shall go with Father in the Eastport vessel on Saturday. She is a fine brig, the Splendid, Capt Wm. Stackford. Feel tired enough to go to bed and think I shall sleep. Bought a pr. of walking shoes for 9/6 at Faxon’s.
Boston Thursday September 2, 1830. Weather very fine and cool with a southerly wind. Arose quite earley [sic]. Took a travel after breakfast over to the iron works on the Mill Dam. Very fine works, and much more extensive than I ever saw before. They manufacture all the scrap iron in bars by means of a trip-hammer. Warm work for some. From the Iron Works we passed over into Cambridge (I think the town was) to see the Glass Works but they would not admit any one so we lost all our trouble for nothing. From this place we went to Charlestown and took a look of the navy yard. It is the greatest curiosity that I have seen in Boston. Three large ships are now on the stocks, the largest of which will carry 125 guns. The dry dock which they are now building is a great undertaking and employs a great many hands. It will take a year from this time to finish it. There is a stone wall around the yard which is very large and every[thing] is conducted in the greatest order. Three ships, the Independence, Columbus and Constitution, are dismasted and waiting to be repaired in the dock when finished. They are kept in fine order and look very clean. The yard appears to [be] well supplied with everything for defence [sic] and one of the workmen told me there was timber enough in the yard to build a dozen 74’s. Some of the anchors weigh over four tons. After looking around as much as we wished, we returned to Boston. I did not sleep much last night on account of the noise. I am very tired of running about today although well paid for my pains in seeing some of the wonderful works of art. I think it is worth anyone’s while and money to go and see them.
Friday September 3, 1830. Weather clear with a southerly wind, cool. After breakfast we began another tour to South Boston to see the place and the Glass Houses. We could get no permission to see the Glass Works and so we traveled on to the end of Dorchester Pt. (I think it is called) and got ferried across to the castle. The fortifications here are very strong. The wall is from thirty to twenty ft. in height, I should think, and about the same thickness, built of brick with grass on the top. …and mounts an hundred guns although the most of them are now dismounted. Three companys of fifty each are stationed here. The place is kept in great order. One of the soldiers told me they intended to build it over next year with stone. After satisfying our curiousity [sic] we returned to Boston tired and hungry. We board at a very respectable cellar near the new stone market. Spent the remainder of the day in strolling about town and seeing what was going on. I swapped my large [watch] seal for a smaller one. Went to the museum the other evening and was highly entertained. Went to bed but did not sleep much for the rattling of wagons on the pavements.
Saturday September 4, 1830. Clear and windy. Very cool air. Wind appears not to be favourable for our intended trip to Eastport. Went over to Charlestown to see Joshua Seavey who tends the draw of the bridge and took dinner with him. Went up to see the monument on Bunker Hill. It is a very fine undertaking so far and is about forty ft. high. It is of large hewn stones and has a spiral staircase to go to the top. Returned to town about noon and Capt. Shackford thought he should not start till tomorrow on account of wind. We had another afternoon to travel the town and see all that’s going on. Saw George Whitney yesterday and had a long talk with him. He is tending store for his father. Saw Gould likewise. He is going to start for Waterville tomorrow. The market at Boston is now very full of all kinds of fruit and vegetables which are sold very cheap. Apples we saw sold for 9d pr. bush[el]. Went aboard the brig and slept tonight. Capt. Shackford, I think, is a very fine man and experienced seaman. I think I never was in a place where the people were so civil and obliging as Boston. I have not been in the least misused by anyone since my stay here, which is remarkable. I think the city must be managed by excellent laws. I saw many fine buildings here which are worthy to be noted, viz. the State House on the highest land in Boston and can be seen at great distance, the U.S. branch bank, Newstone market and some other smaller buildings. I think we shall start tomorrow now.
Sunday September 5, 1830. It is very pleasant day and the wind nearly fair for us but we had to wait so long for passengers that we had to wait till the afternoon for another ebb tide. Stayed aboard the vessel all the forenoon. Got under way about one o’clock. After we had got some ways we found that one of the passengers was left, but he came aboard in short time in a small boat. We have a fine breeze and plough along finely. Passed “Nicks Mate” about three. Our vessel, being loaded light, tossed nicely upon the water when there came a heavy swell. I am not sick any. We have fine accommodations in the vessel and as good a table is set as at most of the taverns. The Cabin is made wholly of Birds Eye Maple and Mahogany which make rich work. The State House of Boston was the last building of the place which was perceptible [sic]. We had but a faint glim[p]se of Salem and Gloucester as we passed along the coast. At about dark I “turned in” and felt a little “squeamish” but got over it after a while. Quite a number of passengers are sick. Father was some sick tonight. We have between twelve to fifteen on board as passengers.
At Sea Monday September 6, 1830. Arose about sunrise. The sun look[ed] beautiffuly [sic] at sunrise, rising from the ocean apparently. We have yet a fine wind and get along very fast. Capt. said we went ten knots an hour some of the time last night. We are out [of] sight of land all the morning. Some cold. I have a very good appetite. I am not sick today. We run along the coast till four in the afternoon when it began to rain and be foggy. Fished for mackeral [sic] some this afternoon when the wind died away. Saw many “Lights” and Islands which I did not know. Saw Mount Desert about dark. The sea looks like fire tonight when the swells break. Saw a school of mackerel this eve. They look very brilliant. I stayed in the Galley tonight, was very cold and did not sleep much. Pretty good breeze. Had to lay to two or three hours because so foggy. Wind hauled round towards morning so that [we] have [a] head wind and quite foggy. Rained all night and quite cool too.
Buck’s Harbor Tuesday September 7, 1830. Very rainy all day and head wind, hard to beat. Foggy especially in afternoon. Had wet feet all day, expect [to] get cold but hope not. Dont have a very pleasant time, so wet and wind against us. We beat against the wind till four o’clock when Capt. made for harbor called Buck’s Harbor. It is a very romantic but good harbor with good anchorage. After we were moored I throwed out a fish [line?] in hopes of catching some fish but had no bites. Five of the passengers went on shore in the boat and got some milk and eggs. There are but two or three houses around the harbor but inhabitants are generally very neat and industrious. Almost all the sea coast of Maine is an iron-bound, bold shore and vessels can approach very near land with safety. Hardly any other trees grow near the sea where I have been but cedars and spruce, which make a kind of gloomy appearance. In some places the ravages of fire can be seen and the tall straight cedars are seen dry and without verdure like the lofty masts of ships. I am told the inhabitants on the shore subsist chiefly by fishing, the land being less profitable than the sea although I saw some pretty good farms. We enjoyed ourselves very well on board the vessel this afternoon in the Cabin and those who were sick soon got well when the vessel was in still water. The sailors here had a very wet time yesterday and today. Went to bed tonight with the expectation of sleeping some. Have not slept much for some nights past. Another vessel (schooner) put into harbor this afternoon.
Off coast of Maine Wednesday September 8, 1830. Arose this morning about six, I think. But very little wind and that almost against us. Made sail after breakfast for Eastport. The weather is foggy yet with signs of a continuance of the rain. Sometimes it look[s] very much like “breaking away” and being fair but perhaps in 5 min. it will rain as fast as ever. We sailed leisurely along the [coast] all day, sometimes going within a stone’s throw of huge rocks which formed the coast. Saw some lazy porpoises rolling about in the water this morning. Fished for mackerel today but caught none. “Along toward” night it began to grow more foggy and the tide to run against us and no wind hardly. So that about dark we were in so thick mist that we could not hardly see the length of the ship. A little before night we heard the fog bell at West Quody [sic] Light but after that we could not hear it although we fired a fog gun from a swivel on board, so that the Capt. concluded we had drifted back with the tide. But after an hour or two, there being a little more air or wind, we came [with]in hearing of the bell and the Capt., then knowing perfectly well where he was, made for West Quoddy Harbor and anchored the ship in still water. Rainy tonight.
Off Eastport Thursday September 9, 1830. Arose about as early as usual and found it rather foggy and some rainy yet. We anchored in sight of Lubec Meeting House which sits on a rising ground from the town and makes a good land mark. The light (West Quoddy) was a little to the stern of us, and Lubec Meeting House (Maine) ahead. I fished here some this morning with the same success as before. Campo Bello, an island belonging to England, was on our right; Maine on our left; Grand Menan [sic], another British island, laid off to the stern of us almost hid from view by fog. After breakfast we again set sail, having now and then a little rain which kept the decks wet and our feet likewise. We sailed along close to Campo Bello, being obliged to enter Eastport harbor at the east entrance because we could not enter the west on account of a bar there which is difficult to be crossed at low water. Campo Bello is very much like the coast of Maine being almost straight up and down like a wharf and filled with little coves which run up into it perhaps twice the length of a vessel and sometimes more. It is very thickly wooded with almost [every?] kind of trees but chiefly spruce and cedar, I should think. A light is placed on the end of the island bordering on the east passage by the British Government. We went by the passage sight [site] about noon. After we had got into the harbor we saw a large lot of gulls flying about and lighting in the water, catching herrings, the sailors said. I should think there was an acre of them. Between two and three o’clock, the fog clearing off, we found ourselves in sight of Eastport. It is not a very large place, but what may be called a large village having [being?] very well calculated for a handsome town if rightly laid out, the ground gently ascending from the water, on the high ground overlooking all the houses, and the harbor is a very fine fort. We landed and went up to the best tavern in the place in Washington Street, kept by Sloan. The streets are very irregular and muddy and the buildings generally not very good with a few honorable exceptions. The street next to the wharves (Water St.) is chiefly composed of stores and mechanics’ shops and is the business street. We found vessels enough going to St. Johns who would like to carry us. We have spoken for passage on the Schooner Porthat and intend going tomorrow, wind permitting. We went to see True Edmunds who is at work here for his brother who keeps a livery stable. It is very foggy tonight and they tell me it is generally very foggy here. I understand there will be no corn here hardly, but potatoes good. Hay not very plentiful. Folks are not done haying here. No fruit grows here. Heard some music from the fort tonight at nine o’clock.
Eastport Friday September 10, 1830. I was awoke this morning at four by a gun from the fort but did [not] arise then. I found wind against us when I went to see the Capt. about sailing and so I had to content myself another day here. A man here wanted a horse machine made to carry a threshing mill, and he [Father?] helped him all day. Got it most [done?] at night. Rained some today. I have seen many Indians since I have been here who live on an island about six miles off under a government of their own party. They catch porpoises for their oil and seals for their skins. They are simple in their manners and provide only for the present. Great lovers of rum. We calculate to go to St. Johns tomorrow. Have not done much today but run about and see what is going [on] in the place. They have very extensive salt works about a mile from here, I am told, where they manufacture 1000 bushel of salt a day from a mineral brought from England where it is bought very cheap for ballast for ships. It is something like our common [salt] but has much more saltiness than salt. It is a very profitable establishment, I am told. I meant to have gone and seen it but it rained and I had no umbrella. There is but little shipping here and that is chiefly small craft.
Bay of Fundy Saturday September 11, 1830. Arose pretty early this morning and found that our vessel was ready to start. Blustered around some time before [I] could find Father, took breakfast and went on board with hardly any wind and plenty of fog. Took us to most dinner time to get out of the harbor, but we did not have dinner till three and then a poor [one]. Our vessel is small and no good accommodations for passengers. The Capt. a very fine man, I “guess.” Fog cleared off after we had got out of harbor and the wind breezed up finely. The steamboat St. Johns went by us at the rate of four miles an hour making a noise like a rolling factory before the wind breezed up, but when that blew we gained upon her three or four miles notwithstanding she had as much sail as we had and steam. Miserable boat! We kept in sight of her all day although the wind almost left us. The coast all along to St. Johns is very similar to that of Maine which I have already mentioned, being very bold and covered with cedar. I saw not one farm from Eastport till I got to St. Johns. Came in sight of the Nova Scotia coast. They have very remarkable tides here. The tide at Eastport arises between twenty and thirty ft. and at St. Johns between thirty and forty, and one hundred miles above St. Johns sixty ft. Our Capt. told me they had to make more calculation in sailing about the tides than wind. We arrived in the mouth of the river St. Johns, or harbor, about dark and the tide got so strongly against us and the wind so light that we had to anchor all night. Quite cold tonight. Can see lights from town. There is a light at the entrance of the harbor on an island and a buoy between this and the town on the [?]. Spoke with a vessel bound to St. Johns from Jamacai [sic] this evening. An Irish sailor passenger for St. Johns on board gave me a very nice konk [conch] shell.
St. Johns Sunday September 12, 1830. The vessel was under way for town this morning before I was up. Very cold air. Had a fair view of St. Johns from the vessel. It is situated by the right bank of the river where it bends a little below some falls. It ascends gradually from the water to a little height and is rather irregularly laid out. But little shiping [sic] considering the size of the place. The houses are mostly wood and not very remarkable for their beauty. Many of the buildings are shingled instead of clapboarded. After we landed we went up Bing’s [Road?], a very wide and muddy one in order to find a tavern to get some breakfast but we found none which we could enter but one little and dirty-looking into which we passed and got some breakfast. I dont like the looks of the city at all. It does not look so neat and clean as our New England villages and towns. After breakfast we went down to the wharfs and inquired for Grandfather and found that he was up the river thirty miles and over at what they call the “Head of the Reach,” and that it would be our best way to go over to a little village near the falls called “Indian Town” and then wait for a boat. Accordingly we started off and after we got there we found that all the boats called “wood boats” had started that morning before we got there and so we had to wait all day lounging about doing nothing. There were a number of Indian’s wigwams on the other side of the river which I went to see. Indians stay about here all the time. They paddle their canoes with astonishing swiftness. They are a lazy set of dirty fellows, sell all they get almost for rum. Their wigwams were made of bark. At this place is what is called the “narrows” where the river is hemed [sic] up between two solid rocks of limestone. Much lime is made here. Went to the Freewill Baptist meeting this evening, liked [it] very much. The meeting was well attended. There are falls, as I said before, between St. Johns and Indian Town over which boats can only pass up and down at high water, and then not without a pilot. Hardly any corn grown here but excellent potatoes better than I ever saw before anywhere. Corn is worth $1.00 a bushel, wheat $2.00, potatoes 40 cts. We board[ed in] Indian Town at Johnson’s Tavern waiting for a boat.
St. Johns Monday September 13, 1830. Fine day and fair wind for us to go up now. We stayed lounging about till dinner time and no boats had started for up river and Father hired a man to carry us up in a small boat. After dinner we started again. For the first two miles the tide ran very strong against us, especially at the narrows, and the bank of the river on either side is of solid rock one hundred ft. high in some places, I should judge, and a great part of it limestone. It made a very romantic appearance. At a place about a mile from where we started we stopped to get some pure cold water which poured out beneath a rock and I picked up a piece of beautiful white marble, of which there was considerable about near by, the boatman told us, and indeed I saw a barn underpined [sic] with some of it. Rich underpinning! After going about three miles we entered the bay which was very much agitated by the wind and tide and is about seven miles long. Saw some Indians on the shore on their way to St Johns. At the head of the bay we stopped at a tavern and took in two more passengers who rowed for their passage. The wind [died?] away. On the west side of the bay there appeared to be some pretty good farms, but above the bay, till we got to the “Head of the Reach” or nearly there, not many good can be found, I should think, by the appearance. The Reach is a long stretch of the river in our direction for about twenty miles and will average one mile wide all the way, I should think, and very deep. About half way we stopped again to get some water from a very cold spring near the river and on puting [sic] a bottle into the water and placing it out [on] the ground the bottom drop[p]ed off, which is the case with all glassware the man told us that lives close by it. This is something singular, I think. Got two more oars here, and went on again till we came to a tavern at the Head of the Reach called Van Wart’s about one o’clock at night, sleepy, tired and cold, having been in an open boat. Got into house and went to bed.
Greenwich Parish, Kings County, New Brunswick Tuesday September 14, 1830. Arose in good season and found that the wind is blowing against us so hard that it is doubtful whether we go down or not. Father sent the boatman off after Grandfather, who lives about two miles off. In the meantime I took the boat and sailed about the river. The farms about here look to be very good and I am informed that there are some excellent farms between this and Fredericktown seventy miles further. The river is navigable for boats of 100 tons to that place, I should think, and further up for for smaller. After loitering about awhile the boatman came back and said that Grandfather was not at home, but that the old woman where he boarded was very ***** and inquisitive to know who wanted to see him and said she had expected Father down and wanted to know why Father had not come to Grandfather himself &c. Anyone from this conversation can judge what kind of woman she is. Father sent the boatman off again to bring him some way and accordingly about noon he came. He was dressed very poorly which argued that he was not in very affluent circumstances but not that he was not honest and upright as I understood he was in a great degree. It was the wonder of his neighbors why he lived with such persons of bad character for I was told he supported them in laziness by his industry. Some think he is worth something and others not. He has concluded to go home with Father in about two weeks. He says he has always been trying to get a little money so that he might go home, but that all his plans have been frustrated, perhaps, because he has not gone home before. He wants to go home but still he feels ashamed to because he has been gone so long and got no more property probably. He is going to settle up his little business as soon as possible with the help of Father.
Wednesday September 15, 1830. I awoke this morning and found it rainy and a southerly wind against us. After breakfast Father and I walked up to where Grandfather lived. It is a poor place to live but still has some marks of cleanliness about it. It was a log hut built against a large ledge of rocks, which formed one side of it. It had two rooms or places to stay in. Grandfather had a little shop near where he made all kinds of wooden ware and sold it up and down the river. Strange it is that he has lived here instead of going home and living like other folks. But it is pride, I think. It cleared off a little about noon and we started after dinner. A steamer goes from St. Johns to Fredricton. This river is used much like a road and is the only way almost by which the country is traveled near it. There are taverns on its banks as much as on a public road. In winter it is used in part for a road. A noble river, broad deep and long! Finer than the Merrimack some, I think. The land is very cheap in this Province. We had to row all the way from the Head &c. to St Johns, a little more than thirty miles. I took one oar all the way. Rowed seven miles against and with tide the first stretch. Did not feel it much. On the banks of the river the hay is started as it is on salt marshes near the sea, viz. on piles drove into the ground, and some without them. Got half way at eight o’clock in evening, and then the tide and wind was against us. Hard rowing. Stopped here at the boatman’s father’s and got some bread and milk. A little refreshed. Quite cool, and I dont fancy rowing all night and paying for it, but have to so as to take the steam boat at St. Johns for Eastport. Stopped again after a streatch [sic] of seven miles at a tavern and warmed us one hour. This I thought very comfortable but dreaded the remaining ten miles the more for being so comfortable. We started again which was at the head of the “Bay” and found it very calm instead [of] being very much disturbed as it was when we went up, because there was no wind. Tide carried us down some now because it had turned. Arrived at Indian Town at daylight and warmed by a good fire. I felt very glad that my rowing was over and that I had again regained “terra firma.”
Bay of Fundy ‘tween St Johns and Eastport Thursday September 16, 1830. Very clear day but “as cold as guns” and windy. After having warmed me I started for town and took the steamboat at six o’clock. About a dozen passengers in the dirtiest, slowest and most miserable steamboat (or a thing they call so) in existence, I think. It smells like a greasy machine shop and makes a noise when going [as] from a smashing rolling mill. It is a disgrace to St Johns to have such a boat. They told me that it was a dozen horse power!!! Tide and wind is against us and one may judge how fast we go when she averages at any time about four or five knots an hour. St. Johns is a most curious place for shoemakers and tailors. Here almost every house had a sign of one or the other of these. I saw one or two pretty churches. There are an abundance of Irishmen and Englishmen here. They are generally the off scourings of their countries and come here because they cannot get employment there. To look for the present is generally a characteristic of them (for I think I never saw one rich in life) and they will have their days of drunkenness and carousing, which makes them turbolent [sic] and troublesome members of society. The people of the provinces have a very high opinion of the States and acknowledge that they are superior to England in ingenuity and enterprise. I think from appearance that they are quite contented with their government, which is very good and similar to that of the States, or at least their laws are. We drove along against wind and tide for a time but after the tide turned we went faster. Took no comfort all day, so cold. Boat rocked and rolled very much by the motion of the water. Arrived at Eastport at nine o’clock having been fifteen hours coming sixty miles. Had to pay 40 cts to the Custom House officer for landing trunk. Went to Sloane’s. Capt. Shackford has not sailed but will tomorrow. Feel very tired and dirty by this day’s jaunt.
Eastport. Friday September 17, 1830. Arose quite early and went to see where Capt. Shackford [lives?]. At ten he sails, and then I went and got my breakfast. Started at ten with a noble breeze which drove us along very fast. The vessel is loaded very deep with plaster. We passed by Lubec at this time because we went out the harbor at the opposite passage to which we came in. We had about twenty passengers, a few sick. At half-past seven tonight we were off Mount Desert and, the wind not being very fair for us, the waves broke over the vessel considerable at times and wet the decks. I was not sick. It is generally thought that Smith is chose Gov. of Maine instead of Huntoon. The Election was on Monday last. Quite warm Down East about in politics.
Portland Saturday September 18, 1830. Very fine breeze this morning and fine day. Slept very well last night. It is very pleasant sailing this morning. Saw ***** Island and light this morning about twenty miles from Portland and at the mouth of the Kennebeck River. It is a very barren heap of rocks. The coast along here is all made up of ledges of rocks. Arrived off Portland about ten o’clock and, the wind dying away, the Capt. had to send the boat in with the Portland passengers and lay by with the vessel till it returned. Six or eight were bound for Portland. We started off in the boat with the sea as level as a house floor almost, it was so calm. Had a pleasant boat ride. It was about six miles to town. We passed directly under White’s Head, a large high ledge of rocks with a little grass on top where sheep were feeding. There are many islands off the harbor making five or six passages into it. After leaving White’s Head on the left we came to a little island on which was a small fort. Leaving this on our right we came in full view of a noble and handsome town. On our left as we came towards the town was a fine fort situated on the mainland and on our right was a point of land on which was an observatory. The town at some distance does not make so much show as some others that I have seen, but when it is entered it will appear better or at least I found it so. I had formed my opinion that it was no great of a place, but I never was so much mistaken. It is the handsomest town of the size that I ever was in. The sun was so very hot that I swet [sic] some. We arrived at the wharf about twelve, and went immediately to Mitchel’s tavern. After dinner down to the wharf and found a steamboat bound for Augusta and engaged my passage. Starts tomorrow at six o’clock. There is a fine lot of shipping here although not so much as at some larger towns. The principal part is brigs and ships, which are generally new. The streets are very pleasant, especially some of the back ones where the noise of business is but little heard. There seems to be a considerable taste for trees which add much to the beauty of the place. After walking from one end of the town to the other I went into the museum which, though small, is very well selected and shows a variety of curiosities. I understand that a theatre will be opened soon. Some very fine churches. Portland is almost surrounded with water, a large marsh-like running up on the back of the town opposite the harbor, and some of the streets pass from the water on the one side to water on the other. There is a good observatory here on a piece of ground a little more elevated than the town. I feel much tired walking about but am repaid for my pains by what I have seen. Portland seems to me to be a very orderly and well regulated town. I saw no cases of drunkenness or other vices but all appeared to be industrious and attending to their own business.
Saturday September 19, 1830. Fine day. Arose at six and went to the landing to take steamboat. It was waiting for the Connecticut which arrives from Boston this morning. After she arrived (which is a large handsome steamer) we started, having taken in passengers for Augusta from her. We passed among so many islands that I could not tell which way we got out of the harbor. The helmsman said there were 365 islands in the bay (Casco) and navigable among them. We arrived at the mouth of the Kennebeck about noon. This steamer is not very nice but goes very well for so small a one. From the mouth up to Bath the land is not very good but principally rocks on the shore of the river and poor land back. There are but very few buildings on the banks that I saw. Phippsburg lies at the mouth of the river. A few miles before I got to Bath I saw some very good farms and also all the way from Bath to Augusta. The river is navigable for vessels of most any size to Bath and for smaller vessels to Augusta and for boats to Waterville. I like the looks of the river and the farms on the banks very well. It is a fine river. And a fine day’s sail from its mouth to Augusta. At Bath, which is quite a village situated on the west bank fourteen miles from the sea, we shifted steamboats, and took the Waterville, a little flat-bottomed crazy thing which went very slow. There is a little shipping at Bath such as brigs and schooners &c. I am told apples are very plenty here this year. The early frosts have hurt the corn much. We passed by a number of villages, some of which I do not now recollect. We passed Gardiner and Hollowell [sic] after dark and so I did not have a chance to see them. We arrived at Augusta about nine and were glad to get off to bed. Very much fatigued with seventy-five miles’ travel. On the whole I have had a very pleasant sail today, about as good and pleasant as I have had since I came from home. The day has been favourable and my company good and accommodations about common. We will start for Waterville tomorrow morning, which is about twenty miles off. Going in stage. This is my last route and I am truly glad, for I am tired of being jounced about any more at present although I like to go over the country and see all that is worth seeing.
Augusta Monday September 20, 1830. Awoke not very early. Hadnt time to go out to see the place but it appears to be a new place rising slowly. The streets run paralel [sic] with the river, and one above the other so that the street is nearly as high as the tops of the houses of the street below. Their State House is not finished. The outside is nearly finished. Started at eight, passed over a fine covered bridge. The stage was full. All the way from Augusta to Waterville the road goes along the east side of the river very nigh to it. There are many good farms on the river which appears to be settled on all the way up. I saw a tavern sign worthy of note, it was the “Vassalborough Hotell,” the Hotel having two l’s. We passed through Vassalborough and Winslow and arrived at Waterville at eleven. I found it a little village situated on the west side of the Kennebeck eighteen miles from Augusta and, I should think, contained eight hundred inhabitants. It is built on one straight street and has a fine large new Baptist church, and one owned by the town and an academy built of bricks. I took dinner at the tavern (Page’s). A covered bridge crosses the river. After dinner a Mr. Huth went up to the colleges with me. They are situated about half a mile from the village on the same bank of the Kennebeck and consist of two buildings of brick about the same size as that at New Hampton only four stories instead of three. There is a fine yard around them with gravel walks. …The students were out exercising themselves when I arrived there, playing at ball. I went to Hutchinson’s room and did not find him but soon he returned and was quite glad to see me. He rooms with a Clark. Gould and Ingalls are together and have not been here long. Gidding has entered the Sophomore Class and rooms with one of his Class. And so I must shift for myself in getting a room. I inquired among the students who are very accommodating and pleasant but found no vacancy where they wished a “chum,” as they are called here. Hutchinson introduced me to the President this afternoon. He is a perfect likeness almost of old Esqr. Von of Pembroke and acts and talks very much like him. He told me I should be examined this eve at seven o’clock at one of the Tutors’ Rooms. One would hardly think him from his looks to be a Pres. of a Col. but I suspect he has a great store of knowledge. I was likewise introduced to Prof. Conant. He is a fine man. I find that the rooms of the Colleges are rented to the students for six dollars a year and that all are obliged to room in college buildings. The rooms are entirely furnished by the students who occupy them, with everything which they need. I must confess this was something I did not know of and of course I came wholly unprepared. I find that the students in general use straw beds for feathers so that a bed will not be very expensive. I have found a room on the first floor of the “South College” and, although it is not in quite so good a situation as I should like, yet I must be content with what I can get as I came last. The rooms are chosen according to the different classes, the Seniors having the preference and so down in regular gradation to the poor Freshmen who bring up the flag end. But I have no reason to say poor Freshmen here, for this class is as large as all the other classes in College put together and I am sure as respectable. Twenty-three, I understand, have entered this year and there are ten Sophs, seven Juniors and five Seniors. I went in Tutor Paine’s room at seven o’clock and he examined me in Greek Reader and Cicero, and Tutor John Chaplin in Virgil. I went through with it quite well to what I expected, making not more than one or two mistakes. Tutor John is very critical in all recitations.
Waterville, Me. Tuesday September 21, 1830. Arose this morning at five o’clock when the bell rings for prayers and went to the Chapel, a large room in the South [College] where every student is required to assemble at prayers, morning and evening, when the bell rings. As it would be difficult to write every particular concerning the place at once, I shall endeavor to remark upon the events as they pass before me from day to day or give futher [sic] discription [sic] of the places. I slept at Mr. Shepard’s, the steward, who has provided me with a bed at his house until I can get one. I board in Commons as most of the students do for 7/ a week having victuals only. The boarding house is kept in the Cellar Kitchen of the “North College” by a steward who attends to that exclusively and lives there. I never boarded better anywhere. I think our Steward deserves praise for the promptness and good style with which he serves us. I have not studied any today but have been running about for a bed and at last have bought the materials with which to make one with. I bought many things “second handed” of the students: two chairs for 67, andirons for 8, shovel and tongs for 25, table for 12, and looking glass for 42, skillet for 20 and curtains for 17, bookend 2. All my other things I bought new. A bedstead 300, bedtick 1/12, water pail 33, basket 33, mug 6, bedcord 50, feathers 60 for pillary [pillowry?], 7/43 for cloth for bed clothes, 12 for straw. I shall move into my room tomorrow. We recite three hours a day, in Lacroix’s Algebra directly after prayers in the morning, in Terence Comedies at eleven, and in Grecae Majora at half-past four. The lessons although not very long are quite difficult to me because I have to begin in the middle of a book as it were. All the classes recite at the same time and no recitation is longer than an hour. The bell rings when they must begin and end so that all is regular and everything comes in its place. Breakfast at six, dinner at half-past twelve and supper half-past six. Students are required to study till nine in the evening. I am much pleased with the apparent good feeling which exists between the officers and the students, I hope it is an [sic] criterion by which I can judge all the measures taken by them for the good of the students.
Wednesday September 22, 1830. I have not studied any yet because busied about the affairs of my room. Today I have got all my things home to my room and opened my trunks, placed my clothes and books in order ready to go to studying. It would be amusing to one, I presume, to see me busied about my room and furnishing it with necessary furniture. It would seem perhaps some like the hurry and bustle of a house for a new married couple. I like my room very well, because it is neat and clean, having been recently painted, except that the paper has been torn off some by a mischeivous [sic] predecessor.
Thursday September 23, 1830. I studied more today but am busy today as yesterday getting my bed home &c. Feel quite content now by “my own fireside.” I bought me a Greca Majora for $3.00 and Terence for 42 [cts]. I have no Algebra. I now begin to enter on my College course of studies which I must pursue four years, a long time to anticipate truly! But soon it will pass away and I shall be on some other stage of action. This I consider as an important event in my life for now I have it at my option either to distinguish myself as a scholar by perseverance, or to be a Scholasticus by a kind of half-way exertion. I know that my desire is to be one like the former but whether is my desire so great as to impel me towards that station with unwavering exertion I am uncertain. It is my duty to consider the immense obligation I am under to improve my time since I have arrived at this situation only by great expense to my father. He expects it no doubt and he has a right to expect it.
Friday September 24, 1830. I am seated by my table pondering the dark and almost incomprehensible work of Lacroix. The class are on a [ ] and on that account I have to study very hard. We recite in Algebra and Greek to Tutor Paine and in Latin to Prof. Conant. Their [sic] are two Profs and two Tutors besides the Pres. The Pres. goes dressed in real old fashioned cloths [sic], regarding nothing but comfort. He looks laughable when he gets into his surtout up to his ears but [that] is of no weight since he is of sound understanding and solid sense. I went to witness the students declaim on Wed. and from what I then witnessed I concluded that we have as good at New Hampton Institution.
Saturday September 25, 1830. …A large tract of land adjourning the college premisses [sic] belongs to the College which the students can cultivate if they choose and besides a frame is raised for the purpose of a workshop for the students which they intend soon to finish. Much wood can be and is obtained by the students from the river when it floats down and lodges on the shore. Some provide themselves wholly with wood in this way by a little trouble.
Sunday September 26, 1830. Very rainy all day and but few persons attended the meeting. Doct. Chaplin preached because no minister is settled in this place. The Baptist Church consists of one hundred members but, being scattered much and rather cold, they have [no] minister. I think they intend to have one soon. A fine church belongs to the Soc., large and lately built. Dr. Chaplin is not a very powerful speaker and he reads his sermons without a gesture but they are sound, and afford much instruction. I wrote a letter to Bro. Worth in New Hampton.
Monday September 27, 1830. It seems quite odd to hear the bell ring every morning to arouse us from bed but I begin to get used to it, I find. I think there can be nothing more healthy scarcely to a scholar than early rising. I am quite pleased that we are awakened so early although it may be difficult to arise at first, or in cold weather the warm bed will be left with reluctance, almost like drawing teeth. If every student is not in when the doors are closed at prayers, no one without can open them and of course he is marked absent by the Monitor and has to render his excuse for his absence to his Tutor. It is an excellent plan and serves to make them very punctual in their attendance at prayers and recitation. For every absence from prayers, recitation or any misdemenor [sic] the student has a mark placed against him by his Tutor if no satisfactory excuse is rendered for such an offense by the offender. And at the last Commencement, in his Senior year, each student’s part is assigned to him according to [the] number of marks against him. If he has the least of his class he will have the first part, if next to the least he will have the second part, and thus all the parts are assigned and each student’s “reward according to his deeds whether good or evil.
Tuesday September 28, 1830. I recite now regularly with the class although the lessons do not yet come easy to me, but I think they will in a few weeks. I understand that the inhabitants of the town are very friendly to the students and esteem them highly, which is a very pleasant consequence, especially if any are wishy to spend his four years in comfort and at peace with the people. The inhabitants of the village are chiefly Unitarians and Universalists, as one told me. There is a very fine brick academy situated near the Baptist Meeting House lately commenced. It has about thirty students I think.
Wednesday September 29, 1830. …Attended a lecture given by Prof. Conant on the harmony of the New Testament and [am] very much pleased he intends to pursue such a course. I also attended the Platonic Soc. of the Freshmen this eve and joined it by signing the Constitution. We do nothing but debate extemporaneously some question previously given. A fine thing! The origin of this Soc. is this. The Freshmen are not alowed [sic] to join the other literary [societies] until they have been a member of College three months, and so we formed this.
Thursday September 30, 1830. Another month has imperceptibly glided away and how changed is my situation from what it was on the first day of last month. Then I was at home surrounded by friends dear and near to me by the alliance of blood, now in Waterville nearly two hundred miles from home almost entirely among strangers. But still the same omnipresent God watches and guards me as in my former days. Gratitude, truly, is due from the bottom of my heart. I pursue still the same course of study day by day. …